Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve 2019
Jean-Paul Daumen’s ancestors purchased this domain in 1905. Back then the entire production was sold to negociants. Starting in the 1960’s a small amount of wine was bottled, mostly for family and friends. Jean Paul’s father Maxime Daumen built cellars with new foudres to make and bottle more wine. Over the past decade Jean-Paul has emerged as one of the most compelling winemakers in all of France. Taking advantage of his ancient vines in the northern sector of Chateauneuf du Pape, and biodynamically farming the entire vineyard, he has produced extraordinary wines since 1998 that have received massive aclaim from the worlds most respected critics. The domaine covers 30 hectares of vineyard that average over 60 years old. The parcels of Grenache that go into the Reserve bottling of Chateauneuf du Pape are over 100 years old. Jean-Paul’s winemaking philosophy is quite simple - old vines, tiny yields of around 20 hl/ha, no SO2 during vinification, aging in neutral tanks or wood and bottling without fining or filtering. Chateauneuf du Papes have come and gone. These wines are truly gems and benchmarks of the appelation.
Domaine de la Vieille Julienne’s wines are not released until Jean-Paul feels they are approaching their peak. This means that his wines age at the cellar and come into the market years after most other Chateauneuf du Papes have come and gone.
The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Reserve is another magical wine, and I might have rated this cuvée a perfect score more than any other Southern Rhône. Unquestionably in the same realm as the 2017, 2016, 2010, 2005, 2003, and 2001, it has an incredible, full-bodied, massive style that somehow stays perfectly balanced, with flawless integration of its fruit, tannins, acidity, and alcohol. Lots of red, blue, and black fruits, loamy earth, Asian spice, licorice, and violet nuances emerge from the glass, and it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, building yet polished tannins, and a great, great finish. It’s a sexier, more opulent wine than the Les Hauts-Lieux release yet has the same perfect tannins that are so rare to find in the vintage. This required at least 4-5 years of bottle age and will drink brilliantly for 20-25+ years.
~ 100 Points Jeb Dunnuck