Ferrando’s white-label Carema is among the most elegant expressions of Nebbiolo in existence, and the 2017—while comparatively rich—still comes off as nimble. Never an overwhelmingly powerful wine, “Etichetta Bianca” derives its sense of structure more from its acid-fruit tension than its tannins, which are particularly well coated in 2017 by the wine’s dark, licorice-tinged fruit. Fermented in stainless steel without temperature control and using only indigenous yeasts, it spent three full years in a blend of large Stockinger botti and smaller well-used French barriques.