Apple, honeydew melon and lime mingle on a delightfully generous nose and an equally engaging palate whose gloss is allied to delicacy and complemented by brightness uncommon for this vintage – a clear tribute to Haag’s having had these grapes harvested in the middle of September. A honeyed hint of quince emerges midpalate. Sweetness here is well integrated to enhance the impression of lusciousness but not preclude animating brightness, consummate refreshment or transparency to wet stone on the finish. This Kabinett’s 9% alcohol illustrates the wisdom in 2018 of letting alcohol rise a bit over what’s typical for the genre, which had the effect of moderating sweetness without sacrificing any sense of levity. “If anything, I’d like in future to move residual sugar in my Kabinett even lower than the 45 grams that are present here,” averred Haag, “but naturally one has to be cautious and sensitive to consumers’ expectations.” Drinking window: 2020 - 2034 - 92pts Vinous