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The Thief

F.X. Pichler Unendlich Smaragd Riesling 2016

F.X. Pichler Unendlich Smaragd Riesling 2016

95 points Wine Enthusiast: An urgent, almost piercing note of green Seville orange zest and conifer leads the nose of this wine. It intensifies on the palate, where it's edged with stony saltiness and a touch of dark, bitter fir honey. A taut, concentrated wine that shimmers with rich layers of flavor, this was built to last. Give it some time, and your patience will be rewarded. Drink 2020–2035.

94 points Vinous: Like its 2015 counterpart – and in a departure from earlier practice – this installment of “Unendlich” is sourced from the Kellerberg and Höhereck as well as the more usual Loibenberg. Around 10 percent of the fruit, reported Lucas Pichler, was shriveled though botrytis-free. The result is an intense concentrate of succulent pear, peach and apricot headily draped in wisteria and lent counterpoint by pit piquancy and smoky, ore-like earthiness. The lusciously lingering finish billows with inner-mouth floral perfume and practically glows with piquancy while avoiding outright bitterness or heat.

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