The Fèvre holdings in Les Clos are the envy of Chablis - seven parcels (five of them high on the slope) covering 4.14ha, with more than half over 60 years' old. This is a brilliant expression of the Grand Cru, marrying power and intensity with focus, balance and palate length. Stylishly oaked, with the concentration to age, it's a textbook white, showing white pepper and citrus flavours and notes of kelp and oyster shell. - 96pts, Decanter